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76
Design Resource
Zari Zardozi - Varanasi
Golden Embroidery
by
Making Process
Making of zari zardozi embroidery goes through four levels. They are: Designing, Setting the frame or “Adda”, Tracing and Embroidery.
• The very initial level of zardozi embroidery is designing. The entire design is drawn on a tracing sheet. Along with the design minute holes are made using needle. These designs are likely influenced by the contemporary patterns that are more of geometrical forms.
• In the second level, the fabric is spread over a wooden frame. The frame is usually of adjustable to the size of the fabric. Then the fabric is stretched out tightly by bamboo sticks or wooden spars to give the cloth a uniform tension.
• Once the frame is set and the fabric is fixed to it tightly, design drawn on the tracing sheet is placed on that flat wooden frame with the fabric underneath. A solution of kerosene and robin blue is prepared, wads of cloth is dipped in it and then it is rubbed on the tracing sheet so that it enables the ink from the tracing sheet to seep on the fabric.
• After the design is imprinted on the fabric, artisans begin the embroidery work. A crochet-like needle that is fixed to a wooden stick known as ‘Ari’ is used for embroidery. By using this Ari artisan speeds up the work as it can pass the threads both above and below the fabric. The completion of the work varies from a day to ten days depending on the complexity of the design and the number of artisans working on the same fabric.
