The first step of naqqashi is to draw/ trace the design on the product. This is done using khakha (paper stencils, dies), chisels and prakaar (compass). Once the pattern is roughly planned out, different types of kalams (chisels) are used to etch/ emboss/ engrave or make a jaali (net) pattern. A hammer is used to hit on the top end of the chisel, the tip of which creates the design on metal that rests on an iron slab called ‘nihai’. Earlier, this work was done with lac filled under the metal sheet for greater precision. Slowly, the use of lac as an under layer disappeared resulting in better speed and less damage to the metal.
There are two types of naqqashi: ‘ubhaar naqqashi’ (emboss and relief designs) and ‘jaalidaar naqqashi’ (net and lace patterns). Jaalidaar is finer and more time-taking, hence more expensive. The motifs of naqqashi are similar to those found in Mughal art designs, the only difference being in the intricacy of this work. Earlier it used to be more elaborate but now the designs are minimalist for the sake of production purposes. The most popular patterns include the half-moon, full moon, stars and flowers.