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Home / Resources / Khadi Weaving - Belgaum, Karnataka / Making Process

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Design Resource

Khadi Weaving - Belgaum, Karnataka

Hand Woven Cotton Fabric
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID, Bengaluru
Making Process
 
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Initially Raw cotton is taken to dyeing process. The process of dyeing includes two methods, hand dyeing and machine dyeing.

Hand dyeing - 20 gram of chemical dye (nitrate, caustic, sulphate) is added in 5litres of water with 10 gram of acid.

Machine dyeing - 35kgs of threads and 600gms of color is added to 100litres of water. The proportion of hand and machine dyeing differs.

To get double color, the threads are tied and covered with tape to required areas. The uncovered areas of threads are dyed.

The added solution is heated for few minutes. And the dyed cotton threads are dried in drying machine for about 15 minutes and taken to spinning process. At the earlier stage wooden charkha was used for spinning but spinning machine is used at present. The cotton threads are wound on plastic cones locally known as Hanji cone and turned into the spindle. The yarns from the spindle are wound on to the bobbins, which are then fixed to the creels for warping. Later it’s fixed on to the loom for weaving process. Operating the paddles manually helps the artisan to pass flying shuttle, which interlock the warp threads. Different colors of threads are used to create the designs patterns. The cotton is mixed with 33% of polyester to make smooth, durable and shine. The polyester is added only while preparing trousers and shirt fabric.  The final products are sent to Ahmedabad for bleaching.

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