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76
Design Resource
Cotton Sari Weaving - Yadgiri, Karnataka
Handloom Fabrics
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baraland Srikanth B.
Making Process
Dyeing:
Before starting with weaving, the cotton yarns are subjected to a kind of dyeing process; often a cold water method. In this firstly, cotton yarns are dipped into a soap solution and taken back. Later after adding the intended colour dye to the same solution, the yarn is again dipped so that it absorbs the colour well. Then they are left to rest until a rod is used to squeeze out excess water from the yarn. Once done, the dyed yarns are dried in the sun; this makes the cold water dyeing.
Spinning:
Once differently coloured cotton threads are ready after dyeing, spindles are prepared out of it. Spindles are made according to the artisan’s colour, design, and pattern preferences for the sari to be woven. Later they are interlocked in the flying shuttle and using a charkha spinning wheel, the threads are spun so as to ensure no breakages in threads, ultimately helping an easy weaving process.
Warping:
Warping involves the stretching of threads. Hereafter spinning, the cotton threads are reeled into a round-shaped wooden machine where they are stretched and tied at two opposite ends. During the process, the cotton threads are also checked for damages and then finally spun to a warp beam using heddles and a foot pedal. This warp beam is thus moved for the final stage of weaving.
Weaving:
At most of the traditional weaving centers, still, the saris are woven on handloom machines. Here firstly, the flying shuttle is passed through the warp shed to progress the weaving. This is the stage where multi-coloured spindles are used in a particular order to attain intended designs and texture to the saris. For colourful borders, the threads are included in the selvage along with the main warp area.
Flow Chart:
