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Design Resource

Bandhani

Traditional Tie and Dye Technique
by
Prof. Nina Sabnani
IDC, IIT Bombay
Social Context
 
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Bandhani is associated with social customs and traditions cutting across different communities. Most communities in Gujarat and Rajasthan use Bandhani extensively in various rites of passage from birth to death. Traditionally each community had a specific set of designs and patterns. In Rajasthan, each community has a different colour and pattern for the turbans worn by the male members. Thus, Bandhani also serves as a visual identifier for a particular community.

A Hindu bride is identified by the red-coloured Bandhani she wears. This is called a Suhagadi. A Bandhani with a yellow background indicates that the lady has become a mother. This cloth is called a Satbhateli. A widowed woman wears a plain black cloth called a Jimi. The Jimi has designs only at the borders of the cloth.



The popular designs have been named Leharia, Mothra, Ekdali, Shikari, Khombi, Gharchola, Patori, Chandrokhani, etc. The Chandrokhani design derives its name from the moon‐like patterns and comprises red dots on a black cloth. The Khombi design is basically white dots on a red cloth. A Gharcholu is the traditional wedding cloth called the Odhani. A Gharcholu is used in weddings in the Hindu and Jain communities. The husband gives this to the bride at the time of their wedding. This cloth is usually arranged over the head. A strip of embroidery may be added to the border of a Gharcholu. The ornamentation in the embroidery is quite elaborate and glittery with zari work. Nowadays, even the women guests wear a Bandhanigharcholu for the auspicious occasion of a wedding.

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