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76
Design Resource
Ajrakh Printing - Ajrakhpur, Gujarat
An Environment Friendly Tradition Craft
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Srikanth, Vijay G. and Shruthi K.
Introduction
Printing on both sides of the fabric is usually referred to as Ajrakh printing where the name is believed to be originated from the Arabic name Azrak that generally refers to blue. These printed fabrics are usually of blue color with a red and white pattern of designs, dyed with indigo and madder. Kutch, district of Gujarat is one of India's leading areas for block printing and dying. It is known for its variety of block prints with the particular style of techniques is empowered by "Khatris" community.
These fabrics were usually used as a turban on the head and as lungis. And are made with several steps of printing and dying on them. Ajrakh printing involves many stages of printing and washing the fabric over and over with natural dyes and mordant.
The craftsmen today possess a large range of different motifs and patterns which is passed down to the next generation of the family. The motifs are addressed by particular names that relate to their symbolism such as Dabul (jewel box), badam (almond) and chap (block). Due to awareness in urban people, the popularity of craft is slowly increasing because of being an environment-friendly tradition craft and attractive patterns. Floral and geometrical designs in the colors of red, blue and black are most well-known in Ajrakh printing, which is traditionally worn by men as lungi, turban and shoulder cloth.
Traditionally Ajrakh cloths are widely used among Meghwals and Ahirs (cattle herders). As per the craftsmen, these fabrics were usually made for the cattle rearing people of the Sindh region as these were worn at the night times when they take their cattle to the forest for grazing. The cattle-rearing community preferred these fabrics as they used to protect them from the wild animals due to the blue and green shade of colors. Also, the blue color in Ajrakh printing has the property of keeping warm in winter and cold in summer.
