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Design Resource

Zardozi

Stitches of Lucknow
by
Sakshi Gambhir
IDC, IIT Bombay
Adda (WorkPlace)
 
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An adda is actually a large wooden frame that the fabric is stitched upon but the word is loosely used for a space where craftsmen work. There are lots of those in Darzi ki Bagiya. Locks at the workshop doors usually open at 9 a.m. each morning, sometimes earlier. Slippers and shoes are removed outside and the men walk in barefeet, for the respect of their craft. They come from various parts of the mohalla to work. There are meal breaks in between and the workshops usually close by 9 p.m. Unlike sarkari offices (government offices that are usually nine to five desk jobs), they work hands-on, twelve hours a day (nine to nine) and sometimes even more. Sitting for hours on the floor is undoubtedly back-breaking work but the quantum of work is seasonal. During the wedding season, dresses are produced back to back and the craftsmen have to work over-time to meet the demands of the market and customers. But during the off-season (when the weddings don’t happen) there is just about enough work to keep them busy.

There is a constant prick-in-the-fabric sound of the needle with a background score of the namaaz five times a day. Their needles move up and down in a rhythm so fast that they make it seem almost effortless at that. It is amazing how they seem an everyday task look so exquisite. It is true of all handicrafts that the craft seems like an extension of the craftsman, natural and full of grace. 

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