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76
Design Resource
Pavati Making - Bijapur
Colourful Head Gear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Divyadarshan C. S. and Manmi Dutta
Making Process
Delicate needle work embroidery sewed on different fabrics to create interesting patterns is prepared by the women folk of the tribe. This embroidery is done with a combination of different kinds of raw materials like mirrors, shells, buttons jewellery pieces and beads of different shapes. The contrasting colours used on their attire indicate their daily life. The main colours used are red and yellow, where red symbolizes marriage and yellow means life. Using complicated methods of stitching, the mirrors, beads, shells, jewellery piece etc are attached to the cloth, which is sewn into dresses, bags, pillow cases, wall hangings, table mats etc. This costume comprises of Lehenga, Choli and Odhni (headgear) locally called as Pavati.
Odhni (headgear) are exquisitely embroidered with bright coloured fabrics stitched with mirrors in a patchwork pattern. A patch of colourful fabric is cut out in shape and sewed in the ends to create a fine piece of fabric ready to be decorated. This fabric is ironed to uniform the creases. A pattern is been decided and mirrors of different shapes are divided and kept for the stitching. Beads and jewels are selected for the embroidery. Old coins are also used for ornamenting the hand stitched Odhni. They are stitched to the front part of the Odhni to create a decorative lace pattern. The main importance of the Odhni is the glitters of the mirrors, coins, beads and jewellery sewed to it.
Patchwork embroidery is a unique style of stitching patterns along with the attachments of mirrors, shells, metal jewellery which are all sewed into the fabric with colourful threads and needles. Different stitches are used to create various design patterns with embroidery square shaped mirror pieces attached with beads to embellish the fabric. Beautiful little embroidery stitches help in attaching the mirror pieces proportionally to the fabric. The craftsman creates a unique pattern with the various stitches which enhances the appearance of the fabric.
The patch of fabric is decorated with embroidered stitches and mirrors to create an authentic handcrafted piece of cloth which is further attached to the front part of the Odhni. The finished fabric is stitched to the front part of the Odhni. The Odhni is beautifully prepared and completed with creative patterns embroidered onto its surface of the fabric. Their clothes reflect their traditional culture from centuries which has been practiced from generations to generations.
Flow Chart of Making Process:
