Design Gallery
Cotton Sari, Mangalagiri - Warping Process
The Art of Weaving
by
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Cotton threads are rolled on the warping wheel.
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Threads are pulled from multiple spools and rolled on the warping wheel.
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The quality of the fabric depends on number of threads taken in sari.
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Three colors of sari yarn are reeled simultaneously to save the time.
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Knots and tangled threads are cleared to ensure smooth weaving.
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Warped threads are tied and bundled.
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The bundled threads are sent for sizing process.
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Bamboo sticks are inserted between the cotton threads.
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Breakages are joined.
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Starch is sprayed on the warp threads.
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Coconut oil is spread using a brush for smoothening the threads.
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Cotton thread is reeled and kept for weaving process.
Mangalagiri is a town in Guntur District, Andhra Pradesh, India, famous for its simple cotton sarees with wide borders made of gold or silver threads. These sarees are known for their rich colors and traditional Nizam designs. One key process in making Mangalagiri sarees is called warping. First, spools of yarn are placed on a machine called a warping wheel, and the yarn is wound onto it. This process is locally known as Assu.
After the Assu process, the yarn is removed from the machine, tied between two poles, and stretched out. Any tangles or breaks in the yarn are fixed by knotting them. Bamboo sticks are used to help separate and trace the yarn threads. The yarn is then sprayed with starch, which makes the color last longer and gives the yarn a shiny appearance. Starching is repeated 10 to 12 times to make the yarn thicker and stronger. It also helps the threads stick together better during weaving. Finally, the yarn is stretched, passed through reeds, and rolled onto an iron rod on the loom for weaving.
For more details:
https://dsource.in/resource/cotton-sari-mangalagiri
